As the season comes to a close we look back on what may be one of those weeks that will go down in fashion history. Dries Van Noten took his final emotional bow in celebration of his 38-year tenure, which served as a poignant highlight of the week. Other established names like Sacai and Loewe delivered collections that reinterpreted their signature styles for a modern audience.
Technical fabrics with performance qualities were a recurring theme, while sustainable and recycled materials found their way onto several runways. This focus on innovation hinted at a future where fashion prioritises both style and functionality.
Whilst the next wave of trends hits the stores, let’s take a look back at some of the key takeaways from the Parisian runways:
For SS25, Rick Owens pulled together an army of 200 students clad in white, marching down his Palais de Tokyo runway to a Hollywood movie soundtrack. Moving away from dark colours and weighty materials this season, Owens opted for lighter and wispy silhouettes.
The runway pulsed with silhouette-hugging silk tops, offset by the sharp angles protruding from the shoulders, a Rick Owens signature. Some models sported stark white faces accentuated by dramatic eyeliner, channelling a signature gothic vibe. Denim capes, meticulously crafted from Japanese fabric, added a touch of rebellion with their distressed gold accents. The collection then took a shift, with models adorned in ornate, arched headdresses, a clear demarcation within the Rick Owens army.
Driven by a desire to elevate the ordinary into the extraordinary, Jonathan Anderson presented his SS25 collection in Paris. Referencing the works of 20th-century masters like Peter Hujar, Charles Rennie Mackintosh, Carlo Scarpa, and Paul Thek, a white stage served as a backdrop for a curated display of art. Models then emerged from its centre, taking to the runway.
Classic silhouettes were reimagined in imaginative ways, black leather jackets were turned sideways whilst feather belts were elongated and wrapped twice round the waist. Adorned with headbands draped in pheasant feathers, the models all sported veiled faces. This unconventional touch underscored Anderson’s signature style: transforming the mundane into the unexpected.
This season Chistose Abe channelled James Dean – the prominent American actor from the 1950s- and his love for discovery, merging different elements to create something new.
The theme of idealistic youth was ever-present in Abe’s SS25 co-ed collection for Sacai. The women’s line reimagined classic silhouettes with a striking, architectural edge. Featuring strong, defined shoulders and trousers with dramatic volume, transforming familiar designs into powerful statements of modern femininity.
In the men’s collection, a dose of cool nostalgia was injected. The classic Harrington jacket, which is a staple of James Dean’s look, is given a refresh with a signature Sacai twist. The result? A mashup of vintage car motifs and floral prints. This hybrid design pays tribute to Dean’s rebellious spirit while layering on Sacai’s innovative touch. To complete the look, models sported books and glasses, hinting at a scholarly yet youthful vibe. It’s a story of constant exploration and intellectual curiosity.
Feng Chen Wang’s SS25 collection pushes her signature deconstructed style even further, with a whopping 35 menswear looks featuring statement shoe covers and a unique collaboration on UGG Tasman slippers. The collection unfolds like a story, transitioning from a sombre mood with sleek grey office wear accented by pops of teal in neckties, to a more practical stage with utilitarian jackets, netted polos, and distressed cardigans. Earthy khakis and transitional browns bridge the gap before the collection explodes with Wang’s signature touches.
The standout of the collection were the platformed rubber shoe covers unveiled on the day. Models stomped slowly down the runway in cream and brown ensembles as if walking on the moon.
The world witnessed a poignant moment in fashion history this season. Dries Van Noten, the Antwerp Six legend, presented his SS25 menswear collection, marking his final runway show before stepping down from his namesake label. The runway, a shimmering expanse of silver leaf reminiscent of Van Noten’s 2006 collection, became a stage for a collection that embodied his signature style.
Tailoring, a cornerstone of Van Noten’s work, remained prominent, with double-breasted and single-breasted suits and coats rendered in luxuriously soft fabrics. However, this foundation was playfully disrupted by the introduction of organza tops and pants, their translucent volumes adding a touch of playfulness to the collection.
The show was packed with industry connoisseurs, friends and admirers of the brand, including fellow Antwerp Six designers, who were all present to witness this final bow. The extended applause that greeted Van Noten’s emotional finale was a reflection of his immense contribution to fashion. The night was truly a celebration. A celebration of a singular talent, a remarkable career, and a legacy that will continue to inspire generations of designers to come.
Despite a star-studded front row, the Prototypes SS25 show remained true to its name. The collection embraced the concept of “unfinished,” a core principle for the brand. Industrial and experimental music pulsed through the venue as models took to the runway in a blur of motion. Their rapid pace created the illusion they were either hastily throwing on or flinging off their garments, leaving the audience questioning the very purpose of each piece.
Models with masked faces added an air of anonymity, while sheer elements, achieved through ripped tights or wispy muslin veils, hinted at vulnerability beneath the surface. The colour palette, restricted to a stark contrast of black, red, white, and denim, underscored the collection’s dramatic edge. However, what really set the show off as a Paris Fashion Week moment was the surprise arrival of Kanye West and his wife Bianca Censori, tilting the attention from the clothes on the runway to the the multi-dimensional artist.
Wrapping up the week with a jolt of excitement, Doublet’s SS25 ditched the traditional runway and threw an anime-inspired fashion party instead. True to the playfulness the brand is well known for, Masayuki Ino filled the venue with a contagious, festival-like energy that charmed the audience.
The collection featured a surprising mix of styles. Wool coats, traditionally seen as military-inspired, were softened with fuzzy metallic bobbles. Cheerleader imagery, typically associated with pep and school spirit, was embroidered onto V-neck sweaters. Elsewhere, ripped denim was given a luxurious twist by being paired with leather. Attendees were given custom-made paddles to judge the designs on display, amping up the interactive element of the show.
