By Hernán Panessi via El Planteo. Adapted for Benzinga
Not too long ago, brands like Forever 21 and American Apparel were setting the stage with trendy, edgy fashion, while AllSaints and Urban Outfitters made waves with their unique storefront events and bold advertisements. Each brand had its own distinct flair and identity.
Since then, fashion brands have navigated a blended spirit, where visiting one store in a mall feels like visiting them all. Amidst this homogenization, the need for deep, original exploration seems to be the only salvation.
In this quest, akin to the unique vibes of yesteryears, The Ann Wagners offers an authentic journey rooted in cannabis culture, New York City nightlife, cyberculture and the Berlin raves of the 2000s.
“Our brand is all about being ‘mounted,’ going out, having fun,” says Flavia López Foco, the creative mastermind behind The Ann Wagners, a fashion label with a name reminiscent of an Australian psychedelic rock band praised by Pitchfork.
Amid their wildly provocative pieces —ones that might scandalize suburban parents— lies a universe of links to the cannabis cosmos. “For us, incorporating cannabis into our brand is a way to normalize marijuana use. Being a stoner is a way of life,” declares López Foco, in a manner that 2024 rockstars should – though many are lost in algorithmic gadgets and the careful asceticism of not offending anyone.
Take their latest collection, Sex-Stars, which pays homage to Prince’s 1984 Playboy cover, flirting with ambiguity and provocation. The collection names are 100% cannabis references: Skunk, Critical, Thunder, Cheese, Gushers, and so on.
“We didn’t just Google this stuff. We nerded out on it ourselves,” Flavia explains, with the (very green) blessing of the legal cultivation lab WePlant.
Their battle isn’t just about bringing marijuana out of the closet but also stripping it of its “masculine aura.” “Enough of this nonsense!” she exclaims.
The brand targets women, conjuring psychedelic energy without filters, aiming at a youthful demographic between 20 and 30 years old. Their prints feature inside jokes, apples inviting a toke, and finely bordered cannabis leaves. “We’re demystifying marijuana use and making it accessible,” Flavia explains. “We’re making it visible,” she continues.
Initially, the project had a different name, a different vibe, a different essence. Flavia López Foco and Martina Brucco, the two women behind The Ann Wagners, met while working. “Where did we hit it off? In music,” says Flavia. From Audio Bullys to Chapa & Castelo.
Martina, an ardent clubber, knows the entire EDM, fashion and nightlife scene of Buenos Aires, Argentina. This gave them an edge: they directly channeled what they wanted to offer through their clothing. “Most of my friends are DJs,” Brucco shares.
It’s worth revealing a mystery: Ann Wagners doesn’t mean anything. Or, there’s nothing that pre-exists with that name. It’s born from creativity: it’s, let’s say, a made up name.
“We wanted a name that could be on a drum kit. Something with an American ’90s aesthetic, not so European,” Flavia asserts. Both revere Priscilla Presley, recognizing her as “a pioneer,” dismissing Lana Del Rey, her natural heir, as “a copy of Priscilla.”
Is Priscilla their spiritual reference? Perhaps: her maiden name was Wagner. Coincidences don’t exist. That sense of mystery creates a mystique. In fact, the girls browsing their stores and racks often ask, “Who the hell is Ann Wagner?”
“How do you say it?” “Where are they from?”
Whatever you want. They’re from Argentina.
“We call it ‘The Ann,’” says Martina.
Despite any mom’s grumbling, they admire the tailoring qualities when they touch the pieces: “Is it sl*tty clothes? Maybe, but it’s well-made, masculine, and that’s our mix & match. We have something dual, and that makes us different from other brands,” Flavia asserts.
Meanwhile, as the fashion market cards stack one atop another, The Ann Wagners plays its game. On their worktable lies a book on Harajuku street fashion, the cradle of street art and Japanese fashion.
“Brands are playing a costume ball, and we have our own dance,” López Foco boasts, outlining her minuet while calling Chardonnay and Soda, the duo’s noisy little dogs.
These days, The Ann Wagners can boast a few accolades, having dressed Latin American music icons like Nicky Nicole, María Becerra and Tini. They also outfit influencers who make Instagram light up with envy.
It’s common to spot their name provocatively adorning underwear at EDM parties. “Those elastics remind us of the Coca-Cola logo, taking us back to the ’60s,” Flavia suggests.
Soon, The Ann, which began on a computer during the pandemic, will have its own stores in highly-covered Argentinian locations.
“Offering clothing where there isn’t any can be a plan: in front of a nightclub and next to a restaurant,” Flavia enthuses.
“We’re going all out,” López Foco states firmly. “All in!” Brucco concludes. This irreverence is how the greats started. The (fashion) call has already echoed across the sky.
This article is from an external unpaid contributor. It does not represent Benzinga’s reporting and has not been edited for content or accuracy.
