Welcome to Laurel’s List, a styling column by veteran fashion editor Laurel Pantin, who writes the fashion newsletter Earl Earl. Her style philosophy centers around the idea that you probably don’t need more stuff, but you should have stuff you really love. Here, she’ll help you find the very best version of that one thing you swear you need—and show you how to incorporate it into your wardrobe, permanently.
While I was steaming my white shirts for this story, my husband came in and asked why I was prepping five of the same shirt. I was appalled—obviously they were totally different.
And I stand by that! White shirts are not as easily transformable as flat boots or minimalist sandals. There are crucial differences between these five white shirts that give each one a distinct purpose in my wardrobe. Sure, they all occupy the same genus (they’re all shirts), but the species are unique, I swear.
This is, easily, my favorite white shirt of all time. I’ve worn this make and model for years. It’s the perfect oversized, mega-soft shirt that looks like one you stole from an ex-boyfriend…and maybe that’s because it is, in fact, from the men’s department. It’s the J.Crew Secret Wash poplin shirt, and I always buy it in the more generously cut classic fit, in a size large.
The point of this one is to look lived in. It looks better and better the more you wash it. It’s not supposed to be crisp, but man does it look sexy. Unlike the other four, I wear this one with pretty much anything, as long as I’m not trying to look too sharp.
I love it in the summer with little boxer shorts (these are from Almina Concept and they’re excellent), or over a swimsuit…or with denim…khakis..bike shorts…you get the idea. This is also my favorite shirt for layering under an oversized sweater in the fall, because the length allows the bottom to show under the hem of the sweater, and ditto the cuffs. If I’m going to layer a button-down under a sweater, I prefer for more of the shirt to show than just the collar. It keeps the whole thing from feeling too stuffy, in my opinion.
This shirt is as classic and un-fussy as it gets. There’s nothing tricky about it, and its simplicity (and softness) are what make it a real winner.
If this next one looks a little worn-in, that’s because I’ve been wearing it at least once a week, every week, since 2020. It’s a slightly oversized, soft poplin Maria McManus shirt with yellow-ish buttons. From the side, there are very subtle details that set it apart.
The first is that the hem rises up in a high curve on the sides, but not so high that your stomach is exposed when wearing trousers or a skirt (in my case, a fringed Lisa Yang cashmere skirt).
This allows the front of the shirt to be tucked in without compromising the fit of the back of the shirt, which has thoughtful box pleat details and gives the wearer a cocoon-like shape. I find that the collar also tends to fall a bit lower on the nape of my neck, exposing just slightly more skin than normal there—so sexy.
The final detail that makes it special is the fact that Maria McManus produces everything with an eye towards sustainability and responsible production. The cotton is organic, and the buttons are made of Corozo, which is made from the nuts of the Tagua palm tree, making them entirely plastic-free and biodegradable. Beyond that, it is so beautifully made, and holds up so well (I have put mine through the wash a number of times, and it still looks great), that you’ll wear it forever.
This is the shirt I reach for when I want to look sharp and thoughtful, but not too traditional or conventional. It’s great with wide-leg trousers, skirts, or kick-flare leggings, though it isn’t my first choice for basic jeans. I like it best as a counterpoint to something that’s a little out-there: it grounds the look without dumbing it down.
I really have a soft spot for brands that do one thing and do that one thing well. E.M. Reitz is one such brand. The Charleston-based label only makes shirts, and they are perfect. They’re super thoughtfully designed with beautiful details, but without being overly ruffly, frilly, girly, or unnecessarily novel. This shirt is called “The Tailor’s Tunic,” and like the name implies, it has more of a tunic shape: it’s long and straight, hitting roughly mid-thigh.
It has a beautiful band collar and two pintucks that run the length of the shirt on either side of the placket. The poplin is extra-light, a tiny bit sheer, and mega smooth. Because there are so many details in the shirt, and because I love the length, I prefer this with worn-in jeans since I don’t like to tuck it. The classic, almost antique-workwear details in the shirt perk up the denim and make it feel cooler without too much of a twist. There’s also something feminine about this shirt that I prefer not to play into too much—so the jeans work, but then an elegant, ladylike sandal doesn’t feel out of place.
Chava Studio is similar to E.M. Reitz in that the brand started with shirting as a specific focus. Since Olivia Villanti launched the Mexico City-based label in 2020, she has expanded to blazers, boxers, trousers, and shorts. Each piece is lovingly handmade in her CDMX studio, and the majority are made-to-order, making this a sustainable choice. For material, she uses beautiful, smooth-as-silk cottons that never feel hot or stuffy. While the item has structure, it also has a beautiful drape on the body that’s super flattering. (Full disclosure: I once did a collaboration with Chava through my newsletter Earl Earl on a navy tuxedo shirt and navy boxer short set, and if I do say so myself it was gorgeous. Her white tux shirt is also a winner.)
This one is her Elegant White Shirt, an appropriate name for a totally classic, perfectly designed white button-down. It has pleats down the back for a slimmer fit, and her signature cutaway collar. The simplicity and purity of this shirt goes best with another classic, preppy staple: pleat-front khakis and loafers. When a shirt is fitted like this, I prefer it tucked in, otherwise I worry that it won’t lay well over my trousers. Ultimately, this is one of my favorite looks. It feels very much like 90s J.Crew, or like the 80s Connecticut Banker Dad look I love.
And finally, a white button-down in silk. My personal preference for shirting is poplin. I usually find Oxford, which is thicker and has a bit more texture, too hot and thick. This one, however, is a heavenly silk crepe. It’s flowy and fluttery like silk, but has a matte texture. It gives me a distinctly 90s dressy feeling, and I love it with a straight black skirt. The one I have on is old J.Crew, and the fringe gives it a bit more oomph than most other solid black straight skirts.
The thing I really love about this shirt is how boxy and cropped the body is. It’s an unusual cut: Normally cropped shirts feel too short on me, but this one just feels right. There’s a real dressiness here that doesn’t feel too formal or old-fashioned. Yes, this is a bit more of an investment than other shirts, but the material, cut, and construction are super luxurious and expertly done.
And there we are! See? They’re different! Or am I nuts? They sure feel different to me—and like each has a real purpose in my life. I don’t suggest everyone needs this many white shirts, but hopefully this breakdown will help you understand which style or type of shirt would work best for your life. You don’t needs tons of things, you need things that work for you.
Read more of Laurel’s List here.
